What an awesome birthday surprise! All the hotels you mentioned are fine. The Hilton is in a great location (1/2 block from Broadway). The Doubletree is a few blocks over from Broadway (I think 4); Hampton Inn is just a couple blocks from Broadway. There's also a Courtyard Marriott on 4th Ave - 2 blocks from Broadway. As for music - just stroll down Broadway (day & night) - you can pop in and out of each honky tonk bar - live music all day. Tootsies, Robert's Western World (great burgers), Legends, Bluegrass Inn.....Unfortunately it's hard to get away from 'touristy' - afterall, Broadway is the main drag and when people come to visit, that's where they all go. You will have fun - everyone is laid back, nice, fun. Also, a nice touch to the area is that they play country music on the loud speakers on Broadway which I think is very cool. You will really get a great feel for being in Music City!